709-218-7927 The Landfall Garden House 60 Canon Bayley Road Bonavista, Newfoundland CANADA A0C 1B0 CPRGreaves@gmail.com Home

Bonavista 2018

Please See also Bonavista 2017

A good, if peculiar trip. I elected not to pay 2x$25 for my “new” suitcase, but packed a black shoulder bag. Made it to the airport by Toronto Transit Commission at 7:00a.m., printed my boarding pass, and made my way to – of course – gate D44 in the most remote corner of the terminal. (It was about two hundred yards short of St John’s NL by the time I sat down, I’m sure).

Tuesday, October 02, 2018

Remember that I have just a pliable carry-on satchel.

Sure enough over the PA “Attention all idiots flying to St John’s today; we are fully booked and will be short of overhead baggage space; those of you who would like to check your carry-ons ...” and millions lined up to save $25.

Not I. I will let the lemmings do their thing; more room for me in the overhead bins.

I did ask, once the tumult and the shouting died, if I could have checked this underweight, undersize bag in for free as I came through.

Nope! No way. We will not appreciate that you have made a small footprint in luggage and then thank you by checking it in for free ten minutes ago. But we will let you check it in for free now that we have discovered – Shock! Horror!! Outrage!!! – that everyone who has paid for a ticket has decided to show up and claim their seat. Who Knew?

Well, we boarded. I am an old man and can’t hear properly, so I waddle into the lineup with “zone 2” passengers ready with my story if they challenge me as a “zone 3” passenger, but to my dismay, just before the clerk reaches for my boarding pass she announces “now boarding zone three”, denying me the use of a good excuse or an opportunity for a protracted argument and delay in boarding.

We push back right on time (well, within two minutes, which makes me want to applaud the captain the way US citizens applaud when the captain lands the plane successfully), but I keep quiet.

As we push back through the rain I note that one part of the wing is held together with green duct tape. At least, I hope it is duct tape. It could be green masking tape – as used by house painters. I can’t remember if that masking tape comes off easily when damp. (If you think I am joking, read this news item )

Here is a better shot taken while we are at an altitude of several thousand feet between one part of Canada and another part of Canada, over a part of The Atlantic Ocean.

I grab-a-cab and scoot into Enterprise at Kenmount. A small black Cruz is for me, but they haven’t cleaned it yet. We check the inside – two fragments of dry leaf on the driver’s floor, and I announce that it will look a lot worse by the end of the day, (for I still have one more hard-boiled egg to shell and eat).

By 2p.m. I am turning off Kenmount onto Team Gauthier and thus the Trans-Canada Highway.

I reached Bonavista at 5:30pm, right on schedule. I was keen to find my B&B for the stay. I knew already where this night’s B&B was, and I wanted a glimpse of the cottage, but with the sun setting in my eyes, I quit. There is no fun driving narrow twisty lanes with parked trucks and small children in abundance. I made my way to Walkham’s Gate Café Pub, scene of my errors last year, and found to my delight the same waitress who cared for me last year.

It was a happy reunion, on my part at least. I worry when people remember me. What did I do that was so bad last time?

A plumbing student pointed out the ceiling-high heater, “everyone’s getting them”, but cautioned me that all houses must have electric floor-heaters, by law. Do you really understand that last sentence?

I was amused by the TV mounted on the wall. A refrigerator blocks the lower-left corner of the screen, so you cannot read the forecast for the next twelve hours.

But then, I suppose real people already know that. It is only Torontonians and their ilk who feel that without a minute-by-minute knowledge of the forecast they can control their day.

I need to change my way of thinking.

I took a shot of the peaceful scene. I do not plan many photos. I did that last year. This is a trip to store ideas in my head.

Wednesday, October 03, 2018

My first full day, although formal breakfast is served from 9 a.m. to 10 a.m. There are four other guests, and this is the first time I have shared a B&B with guests, so we make conversation for an hour and then go our separate ways.

Just for the heck of it I started with a coffee at Walkham’s Gate Café Pub. The old Court House has been painted while I was away.

Here is part of the old court house and across the street a decrepit building. But see this news item .

I was told that this building, built in 1811, is the oldest building in Newfoundland. Looks it!

8 Tremblett’s Hill Road

My first salivating stop is 8 Tremblett’s Hill Road. I did not spend much time here but did inspect the driveway.

There is a remnant of a gravel driveway where could be parked an old clunker. I have outlined in purple what could be a vegetable patch. The grass here is long. I want to take a shovel and dig down to see what the soil is like. Even radishes would be a blessing.

Bank NS

I visit the bank and make an appointment for tomorrow at 11am. To my relief they have a record of my account in Toronto from six years ago. That provides some credibility.

Wayne

Then to Walkham’s gate for a tea. I meet Wayne, who was in last night, and who gave me my Bonavista badge last year.

Crewes Garage

To Crewe’s where I learn that Jessica has left, but the tame bear recognizes me and becomes friendlier once he learns that I just came back to say Thank You and will not be needing an instant oil-change this year.

Derek

So to Discount Autos and I chat with Derek for thirty minutes. We look at the cars. I ask him for their lowest sale price in the past six months and he screws up his eyes and comes up with “twenty-six five”. When I am revived he explains that is in hundreds, not thousands. If I buy here I will need an old clunker to cruise Bonavista, not a car to drive to Clarenville. $3,000 all up seems like a conservative estimate.

Derek, bless his cotton socks, knows everyone in town. Jessica’s dad is just around the corner.

Jessica’s Dad

So I visit T-Body Repair and dad is, of course, apprehensive when a neatly-dressed seventy-year old starts off with “Are you Jessica’s Dad?”. I quickly explain that Derek sent me and then I ask Dad to let Jessica know that I am back and I do not forget her kindness.

Library

The lady behind the desk answers many questions, but wants me to return on Saturday to chat with Brenda. There is no second-hand bookshop in Bonavista, but there is a key to the door outside that leads into the basement, so I descend into the Bowels of Volumes and re-surface with an armful of books, most of which I will read and leave here. A couple will travel back with me.

There is a large quality atlas, and Marbella cottage does not have an atlas. The atlas is un-priced, so I haggle over the price for the lot, talking her up to fifteen or twenty dollars. I offer to bring the atlas back with me on Saturday to let Brenda make a final financial pronouncement.

RCMP

At every stop I have been handing out my Volunteer sheet, and now realize that:-

(1) This is a small town, and people who don’t know me from last year may be apprehensive about a guy offering to drive little-old-ladies to the store; such people may phone the police. It might be smart for me to introduce myself, so I do.

(2) The local police might know someone who could use a bit of volunteer labour.

Furniture Store

I am here to arm myself with questions, not answers. I want to know what questions I should ask myself before quitting Toronto and moving to any small town – even Telegraph Creek. This store quotes me $3,000 for a couch, a bed, and a table and chairs. I’d rather that went to a mortgage. Second-hand or cast-offs for me, at least for the first year while my finances settle down. Still, it’s good to place constraints.

Pharmacy

A quick visit. I have come away with two bottles of eye-drops, one of which I don’t recognize. The pharmacist says that one is for my ears. OK. Glad I asked.

Foodland

And so to Grocery shopping. I spent seventy dollars, for what is ostensibly two weeks groceries, roughly twice my regular spending in Toronto. Of course most things are a dollar or more dearer here; I expect that. Sadly I learn that Chapman’s Butterscotch Ripple (two litre cartons) goes on sale tomorrow at 7:45am. I resolve to check the space in the freezer at Mirabella Cottage.

I bought chicken and turkey breasts (uncooked), potatoes, broccoli, onions, carrots, apples, and six tins of sardines.

A cruise ship braves the roads outside the little fishing harbour. What is it doing here? The town is swamped with tourists (I counted seventeen!)

Thursday, October 04, 2018

I woke around 5am, started a small load of laundry, made a coffee, strolled around outside in my pyjamas, then came back inside to start my day. The online news has an article on the pre-loaded Presto cards being given away.

The photo shows the line up at one subway station – College. This is “my” corner, the NE corner of Yonge and College. The lineup snakes from the bend in College Street, past Bulk Barn’s doors – which must be ticking off the management and customers (if any right now) at Bulk Barn - and then down the stairs to the station concourse, which must be ticking off passengers trying to get from, or get to, a subway train.

The Presto cards are pre-loaded with – wait for it – Six dollars of travel on the Toronto Transit Commission (which amounts to about two, at most three, trips, and Eight dollars on the GO Trains. Maybe two trips just outside the Toronto City boundaries. Maybe not even that.

For this people are lining up here and at other stations and at Union Station and ... Torontonians are stupid. Six dollars is one dollar more than I pay for a large latte at my corner café.

I am in Bonavista, and have just walked on the dewy grass in my pyjamas. Not a soul is stirring, and I know that already I am recognized in this area. I am not a regular, but I am a Known Quantity.

Why am I living in Toronto?

By 6:30 the sky is light in the east, but I had lost my sense of direction. I had been looking to the west! My washing is done, a load is in the dryer. My day starts.

Today’s schedule is aimed at: Riffs, Bicycles (lock), Scotiabank, Town Hall, Computer shop (printing)

I printed off some material with Peggy Street at the Computer Centre Store.

I met with Faye at the Town Hall (she had heard about my visit to the RCMP) and she gave me Betty-Lou Gange’s phone number.

I met with Sheila at Scotiabank and we discussed mortgages.

I then went home to recover!

After lunch I chatted with the nice lady next door to #40. She told me that people grow root crops, but tomatoes are possible in a sheltered area.

I dropped off a pdf with John Russell.

I met with Betty Lou at Walkham’s Gate.

I visited Ruff’s and discussed work opportunities with Ruby and the floor manager.

Out the back of Riffs are parked two trailers with loading steps. Some sort of storage places for merchandise, I suppose.

I marveled at the garage door on one of the trailers.

Passed Wayne on his walk home.

Friday, October 05, 2018

Made list of 5 properties, collected PDF printouts (Kim Boyce-Durdle & Peggy), dropped one off at Riffs (Elwood and Rod), collected Wayne at Walkham’s Gate Café Pub.

Drove around looked at 5 properties, took photos.

Emailed Morley with addresses, lunch.

Spoke with UC (Rev Amanda Barnes 709-468-7666) (UC Office 468-2074 memorialuc@gmail.com, Patricia Oliver 468-2747, Linda Fisher 468-2747, Marie White 468-7018), then lamp bulbs & filters, Town Hall for rates & water, Medical centre for health data, then Elliston.

I have volunteered to help out at the UC Thanksgiving Dinner.

To gift shop – bought book, statue, memorial (SX 19 June) and met BettyLou Genge 709-468-7697 at Sealers. Home for supper.

Amber (20) at Walkham’s Gate Café Pub, Mona (Wayne’s wife), Grace (redhead at WALKHAM’S GATE CAFÉ PUB)

Diane at Town Hall, who tells me that there “are no lawyers in town; closest lawyer is in Clarenville, 90 minutes drive away.

	W&S	Tax
8 Tremblett’s Hill	360	250
25-27 Groves Lane	360	290
60 Canon Bayley Drive	360	250
65 John Cabot	360	590
141 Red Point	360	250

Elliston

I drove the 8Km to Elliston and took few photos. I was in so many places like this last year – a view across choppy blue water to the headland. Houses perched above the waves.

There is a Sealer’s Interpretive Centre and a statue and a war-memorial looking slab. I stood and read through the names on the side, as I do for all war memorials. There were a lot of names. Then I realized that these were victims of one of two sealing disasters a hundred years ago.

I wondered if there were names on the side away from the road, and sure enough, a like number on the verso.

And herein lies a story:-

Last year on Tuesday October 10th I crested the rise and saw all of Bonavista spread out below me. I was moved emotionally by the similarity of this experience to that of my tenth birthday. For May and June 1956 we migrated by ship from the UK to Western Australia. Two days later, on my tenth birthday, we were driven for six hours across the wheat-belt from Perth to our new home of Southern Cross . We crested a small rise and there spread before us was the entire town.

Now you know why I was moved last year to pause as I crested the rise and saw the town of Bonavista spread before me. Took me back sixty years.

Take a look at the top of the slab. Note the name of the sealing ship that foundered.

Now take a look at the bottom of the slab, the commemorative date is June 19th 2014.

Care to guess my birthday?

Saturday, October 06, 2018

Biked to Walkham’s Gate Café Pub, met Terry White, Thunderin’ Flats with molasses. I want to say hello to Brenda at the library, 1:30-5, but am meeting MM at 2, so my plan is to leave here at 12:45, park and visit at the hardware store, say Hi! to Brenda and fix another date, then cruise to 65 Cabot Drive.

Thunderin’ Flats, I was told, was “Fried bread”, and I thought of the slices of bread fried in beef dripping prior to be laden with fried bacon and fried eggs, normal breakfast prepared by my mother.

Thunderin’ Flats is not “Fried bread”, it is a dollop of bread dough, fried, then folded over on itself. Not bad, but awfully filling, spread with molasses.

I have not gotten used to small-town and set off in time for a meeting then find that I have twenty minutes to spare. Here I am wandering around a park alongside part of the fishing harbour. You’d never spot the Walkham’s Gate Café Pub if I didn’t help you.

A view across the lawns.

Dandelions. In October! BRAVE little flowers of hope!

Sunday, October 07, 2018

After breakfast, biked to church and back, then changed clothes and walked to church and back. A dirge-like service of baptism.

After lunch, slept for two hours in the wonderful silence and stillness of Bonavista,

This is the morning sky, well, this morning at any rate. Most mornings I can watch the sun rise. When was the last time I did that in Toronto? (2007)

Here is a view across the grassy wasteland towards “my” cottage and home for two weeks.

The view a bit to the right. The houses in the distance are the northern extremities of Bonavista.

I must ask. This is some sort of fish-drying rack, or else a place to store small fishing boats.

Why do so many cottages sport such small, and so few small windows? According to Morley, the fishing-folk did not want to see the sea once they got home. Presumably they’d had enough of the sea while they were out there. So. Small Windows.

City folk, however, want views of the sea, so large windows.

New houses tend to have large windows. I will make a study of houses and see if only coastal cottages sport small windows, and if the inland (newer) cottages sport large windows.

Monday, October 08, 2018

Here I am driving back from the south side of town. I have marked the Orange Hall (1907) which lies adjacent to the Walkham’s Gate Café Pub, and the Swyers supermarket, which lies on an ESS-bend on the road to the Cape (and the statue of John Cabot)

John Cabot found sponsorship through, and sailed from, Bristol, and I am delighted to note how many conversations about England start with an air-map “Bristol is here, London is here, ...”. My guess is that school children are taught where Bristol is before they learn about Toronto. Good for them.

The view from my cottage across the entrance to the fishing harbour (to the left of this scene). Not a good photo. The third water tank (not a tower) sits on the hill on the south end of town.

When I am this close to the wooden sea-wall, I can hear small waves breaking against the rocks.

A view of part of Bonavista from the road to Elliston. Bonavista measures about five kilometres north-south.

Another view of part of Bonavista from the road to Elliston. Bonavista measures about five kilometres north-south.

The view from my cottage’s front porch. My landlady-of-the-day lives in the fifth building, white with pale green trim.

I am gradually getting my bearings, although in the cottage my orientation is shot to hell. I know where the sun rises – in the east, over there – and I know where it sets – in the West, over there – but am still getting turned around when I bike anywhere.

On the other hand, I now have a set of landmarks. In the photo above, the United Church, the twin water towers, and then the Orange Hall (and underneath it the Walkham’s Gate Café Pub)

From my cottage in the early morning. This little street is a dead-end.

Direct sunlight in the early morning. A quarter to Eight.

The precious blue of the Atlantic Ocean, half-past ten. I think the boat is a fishing boat, but I am not certain. I have much to learn.

More waves quietly going about their entropic business.

In the early morning, nine o’clock, I peeled and diced carrots at the United Church with four members of the men’s group. I of course was full of questions and eked them out while hoping that no-one would find me too inquisitive.

The exposure is good, for people go home and mention me, and word gets around that the “new guy” is from Toronto and is thinking of buying. Some time this week I will be speaking with a contractor who will know about me from a conversation he had with his brother-in-law or next-door neighbour.

In the afternoon I cruised through Dungeon National Park – horses and cows penned in by a cattle-grid – and chatted with a Mister Sweetlands, I think, cutting logs by the side of the road. He suggested I use $1,200 as a conservative estimate for wood-fuelling a house.

People use wood, oil, propane and electricity. I fancy having a pot-bellied stove for emergencies, but electric heat throughout. I am somewhat averse to in-room fuel heating after my parent’s use of kerosene heaters.

I rolled up at the United Church hall at 5:15 and served plates to the seated parishioners, then washed dishes for 45 minutes surrounded by ladies.

I revel in the attention because I spotted Diane from the Town Hall who recognized me, and I welcome the chatter that will follow throughout the week.

Tuesday, October 09, 2018

Today I am due to ask questions at the library, and possibly attend a movie-screening at The Garrick. (Well, I missed the movie ...)

Up around 7:30, and on the bike I set off across town (in the west-to-east sense) to Crewe’s garage to “get my vehicle tuned”, but much simpler than last year. This time I wanted the seat lowered, which turned out to be a two-wrench job but at least now when I pull up at a STOP sign I am in no danger of toppling off into a parked car on account of my legs being too short.

I pedaled back to Walkham’s Gate Café Pub feeling like a clown on one of those low-slung mini-bikes and stopped for a coffee, my thigh muscles telling me to.

And so home, dressed in my “going out” clothes and off to the post-office where I learn that it will cost $25 to mail my Complete Lucia Omnibus back to Toronto, so instead I’ll take the risk of carrying it on board.

Next the library to confirm, by a question veiled in language-study materials, that there are no Spanish-, French-, Croatian-, German- or Korean speakers in town. I thought as much. Audio courses can be obtained by Inter-Library Loan from St John’s for a five-week loan, but it is not clear to me whether the five weeks includes books-by-mail transit time from and to St John’s.

The Inter-Library Loan includes all of Newfoundland and Canada, but it can cost the library $5 per book mailing costs, so I might become the local library’s biggest donor.

Next off to the Computer Shop, dealers for BELL, but the BELL plan in Bonavista is as it is in Toronto – 3GB data and ninety dollars, versus 250MB for $36 with Koodo. Oh well. I asked.

To the Hardware store to browse prices and, more important, items. The items in a hardware store tell us something about a place. Simple example: in Bonavista you’ll find wood-burning stoves, chimney flues, stove fans and so on, which you won’t find in the hardware store corner of Bay and Dundas. I asked for a list of general tradesmen, then duplicated my foray in the other hardware store, on the grounds that a tradesman recommended on both lists was probably OK.

I am scheduled to meet one guy today to get an idea of renovation costs.

That done I ducked back into the town hall to confirm discrepancies between the five property spec sheets and the tax and water rolls. Good to know.

Then home. In the evening a light rain began to fall, so I motored back to the café for a half bowl of soup and garlic bread. And chat, and chatter.

And so to bed, with Lucia and Georgie.

Wednesday, October 10, 2018

I spent the morning wading through my notes and accumulating data in spreadsheet and document before setting off for my 12:30 meeting with a contractor. He didn’t show up, which is alright, because he is, after all, working on a job for a paying client, and that ought to take precedence over giving advice.

Ho-hum so I set off to my 13:30 appointment with an insurance agent to get not quotes, not estimates – for I have no form object to purchase yet – but a ballpark figure for costs. Think $1,200 for home insurance and $1,500 for auto insurance. Ouch, sort of. Of course, not having owned a home since 1993 nor a car since 2003 I am a first-time buyer with no record. Something else for me to complain about.

I remember seeing a kitchen/bath firm, so I dropped in there to get ideas for some renovation costs and a contact name for a general contractor. Then home for a cuppa and a late-lunch-early-supper.

We had what sounded like sleety-rain last night, a tickle-tackle sound on the windows. I woke with a start, being unused to any kind of noise from outside, after only one week.

Thursday, October 11, 2018

Not much today. I met with another contractor to get ball-park figures, and tracked down the town’s only letter-box – outside the Post Office. There is no little-man-in-a-van to collect mail and judging by the volume of mail boxes within the post office, there is no mail delivery. I know in advance that no matter where I live in Bonavista my postal code will be “A0C 1B0”.

This Video is filmed from a drone flying off-shore to visit an iceberg. At the 2m30s, 5m35s and 7m45s marks you can see the town of Bonavista.

I am staying at the cottage marked with a green arrow.

The Inter-Library Loan sub-system at the Bonavista library. These are either books going out, or books coming in. I find it delightful. Library cartons can be left outside the library to await processing.

The padlocked door leads to the basement that houses a bring-and-buy setup where, last week, I snaffled a few good books.

I walk out of my cottage, across the Moses Point Lane cul-de-sac, and take shots of the waves. Yes, that is The Atlantic Ocean, a young upstart ocean, younger than the Susquehanna River.

Friday, October 12, 2018

Today I am on vacation. 8:15 as I type, drinking my first (of two) coffees, listening to the ABC “AM” morning news program. I have spent ten days learning what questions to ask when buying a property “unseen”. Today I am driving out on a 2½ hour loop. Well, two and a half hour loop if done non-stop.

I depart via Highway 230 to take a quick look at Catalina (pronounced “Cattle-Liner”), Port Union, Melrose, Port Renton, Trinity East, Trinity and Southern Bay. Then I head back up highway 235 through Summerville, Kings Cove, and Rewards Cove. I aim to be home well before dark.

Little Catalina

A small town. Mostly all the settlements I visited today were spread out. In conversation I learned that populations were much smaller than I would estimate, but the area is great, and the linear distance to walk from Mister Green’s house to Mister Brown’s house can be huge, because you must walk or drive around the cove shores.

What supports the populations? In Port Union I was told “Unemployment cheques”, and I recall hearing about this as the cod fisheries shut down, oil rigs collapsed and so on. I suspect this means that as an Ontarian I should be upset that much of “our” wealth is funneled into the pockets of Newfoundlanders.

In each location I try to take a shot of a church to serve as a confirmation to identity months from now when I use Google Maps.

A view of the cove reaching out to the Atlantic Ocean.

This is the spot to be if you like to sound of lapping waves in a near-silent setting.

One of the many coastal trails. I hiked a part of this seventeen-kilometre trail without a second thought, but only as far as the bench atop the rise.

The Little Catalina post office. Canada Post’s cut-backs (and consequent announcements of profitable years) are made on the backs of ordinary folks. You can collect your mail after 10:00, when the post office grants you access to your mail box.

The Calvary Memorial United Church. The settlements I visited have mixtures of United, Anglican, and Roman Catholic churches.

I have been noticing denominational cemeteries. Dead United Church folks will have nothing to do with Dead Anglicans, and together they despise dead Roman Catholics. So much for “love one another”.

Linda’s Pub. Made me think of John Grisham’s portrayal of Tonks.

Catalina

Here is the Anglican Church in Catalina. Fooled me. I had assumed by the red-lined windows that it was yet another United Church.

Across the street a lovely derelict house. A fixer-upper. It is for sale but I can’t find a listing.

Still in Catalina. The barn-like side of the Anglican Church.

The Bethany United Church. These are impressive structures for such small settlements.

The view across the cove towards the ocean.

Port Union

A trim well-maintained building, like most buildings of all sizes across Newfoundland.

Port Union used to boast much industry. Factory buildings abound. Keep your eye on those red-and-orange buildings shyly peeking in from the left.

As always there is a lovely view across the town’s cove or bay.

The old buildings are extensive. I think that this factory is still in operation.

The smaller orange buildings housed managers and their families. One by one they are being renovated. Port Union will become a living museum.

The current museum building housed the town’s newspaper.

This is the sight that greeted me as I drove into town. The museum (newspaper house!) on the left, managers houses on the right.

Construction materials and activities drift in and out of view.

Melrose

By now our eyes are glazing over. Another settlement, another cove. Here I walked down to the shingle, across bits of kelp or seaweed ( what’s the difference? )

A view across the shingle to the town.

On my way from Melrose to Port Rexton I took a shot of this sign which made me laugh on my way into Bonavista over a week ago.

I went past the town of Falling Rock.

Quite a nice little landslide.

There is much of interest to the geophysicist, which I once planned to be, many years ago.

Orient yourself with the pine trees in this image.

In the foreground the schistose (I think) rock has broken like a wave onto the road shoulder.

Port Rexton

I park in Port Rexton and step onto a lush carpet of – weeds – sprinkled with small dandelions or buttercups. Whatever. My national colours; green and gold. What a welcome!

Up the hill, a steep gravel road, for a view of part of the town.

Swing to the left.

The peninsula in the distance is part of the Avalon Peninsula set. Last year I stayed in Heart’s Desire and then got as far as Old Perlican when the rental company asked me to return the car !

Christ Church Anglican, Port Rexton.

Another fixer-upper. Too much work for me.

Another view of the Avalon peninsula.

Now, if you live in Toronto you’d never guess what this building houses.

That’s right. A much nicer shade of blue, IMHO!

Trinity

And so to Trinity. I’m not sure where Trinity east ends and Trinity begins. At all events, here is St Paul’s Anglican. Note the open door.

To me an interesting war memorial. The first three named soldiers fell in named places. I admit that if you went to Ypres you might be hard-pressed to find a specific grave, if it could be found at all, but at least you could say “He fell here”.

The fourth name was an R.N.R.” which I take to be Royal Naval Reserve. I assume drowned at sea, hence no named place.

The fifth named man was killed in France. And so he died there, went missing, but no-one knows where. Or at least, at the time that this memorial went up, no-one knew what had happened to him. Only that he didn’t return home.

The church is in its third generation. This building was erected in 1892.

There is a pipe organ. What a little gem.

Not like the mighty 5-keyboard efforts in the big cathedrals.

Just to the side of the church I found a small plaque celebrating the arrival of vaccination in North America. Yeah Jenner !

Another quaint Post Office. I remember in Fleur de Lys noting that they were looking for a postmaster. Might be a good part-time job!

This is the smallest well-maintained powered building I have seen to date. I could fit a bed in there; swap it for the couch when dawn breaks.

I had a perfectly-sized fish and chips in the Dock Marina, then explored the gift shop upstairs. Then, I am ashamed to say, purchased chocolates and ice-cream in the store across the street.

Summerville

Now the settlements are beginning to blur.

A strange profile for a house.

A strange alignment for a window!

You have to love Newfoundland. Guess where this intersection leads.

Everyone told me to check out the Bonavista Social Club; in Amherst Cove. But by the time I got here, it was (sob!) closed for the season. With a manager’s permission I prowled around the grounds.

I was attracted to a raised bed of marigolds and nasturtiums. Nasturtiums, I though. “Capers” for salads!

Mint!

Radishes.

More mint; spearmint this time. TWO flavours of mint.

This bed goes on, and on, and on.

Raspberries. Also Red Currants? This gives me hopes for Gooseberries.

Lettuce.

Chives? I saw Spring Onions elsewhere.

So, from 9:00 to 17:00, eight hours, I travelled 150Km in a big loop:

Saturday, October 13, 2018

I am woken through the night by rain spattering against the window panes. Houses here have no eaves of any significance, and certainly no verandahs!

Sunday, October 14, 2018

Today I solved another mystery.

It has been cold nights, and I well know the insulating effect of woolen socks for the feet, having lived in Toronto for 35 years. It was, therefore, no surprise to see so many clotheslines adorned with woolen socks drying in the wind. If you wear three pairs of socks to keep your feet warm, well, that’s six socks per day per person, which can add up to a lot of socks.

Today my neighbour hung out his “socks” to dry, and now I know why there were so many socks hanging out to dry around Bonavista, but, as yet, no long underwear.

Monday, October 15, 2018

My last full day in Bonavista. I want to revisit the library (13:30-17:00) and the Post Office (how is one assigned a box number in advance?). Pack my bag. After 16:05 I can make my seat allocation. Buy two or three apples for the trip home.

My plan for tomorrow is to rise, shower, throw the linens into the washing machine, empty the fridge and go. Treat myself to a full breakfast at Walkham’s Gate Café Pub and hit the road by nine o’clock. Clarenville: Visit the library, lawyers, The Packet. If I arrive at Kenmount Road by 14:00 I should be in good time for the airport. Land at 18:08, home by 19:30 at the latest.

Tuesday, October 16, 2018

Up at 6:20, Walkham’s Gate Café Pub by 7:20; hot breakfast served by Beverly and Amanda. I leave a bag with a gift for them. An hour or so out of town my phone rings and I am driving so I ignore the phone. Later a voice-mail from Beverly, concerned that I had left behind a bag ...

A terrible storm on the way down. Flights cancelled etc. I get sidetracked on the new highway construction and end up at Enterprise around 1:30. They give me a lift to the airport. We board late, the flight jam-packed with people from earlier cancelled flights, plus aircrews ditto.

Wednesday, October 17, 2018

As near as I can make out I spent $4,400 on the trip. I have an appointment with the BMO before the end of this month.