Wind Power

Mini 12 Volt Wind Turbine Generator, Portable, w/ Accessories,small, Made in USA

Regular price $65.97

Includes built-in diode to prevent backfeed from battery.

Can connect directly to any 12VDC battery. No chargz

e controller is needed.

Easily add on multiple turbines to increase the charging capacity.

Flush mount: Mounts to any wall or panel with (2) 1/8" holes.

Pipe/tube mount: Mounts to a PVC or similar 3/4" pipe (Turbine mount hole inside diameter is 1.050"). A mounting clamp is supplied.

Perpendicular pipe/tube mount: Mounts on a 1" to 1.25" diameter tube. (Some examples would be on a bicycle, gardening poles, etc.)

Tripod Mount: Includes the mini turbine and a 50" tripod with carry bag. The mini turbine body is designed specifically to quick mount on the tripod.

Rotor type: Horizontal axis

Generator type: 12 Volt

Voltage output: 0-30V

Maximum Generator Output: 15 watts

Turbine Weight: 1 lb

Survival wind speed: 45 mph

Battery capacity (If equipped): 7 Ah

ITEMS INCLUDED WITH JUST THE WIND TURBINE:

Wind turbine (Including body, generator and propeller/blade)

12V male cigarette socket attached with 3 feet cable.

Battery Box with Inverter (Optional) Specifications:

12V 7Ah battery inside the box - This battery will provide up to about 6-8 hours of phone charging with NO wind.

Internal charge controller for Solar Panel(s)

Voltage meter screen with battery life indicator

Internal 30A circuit breaker (no fuses to mess with)

Operating Temperature: -40F~131F

Ingress Protection Degree: IP30

Internal silent cooling fan

Perfect for camping, outdoors, vacations, road trips, remote job sites,and charging household items.

Inputs: (1) Pair MC4 connectors for solar panel(s) (2) 12V DC Cigarette plugs (Female) [ Can be used as inputs or outputs ]

Outputs: (1) 120VAC/1PH/60Hz also known as 110V household plug (2) USB (5V DC 2.1A / 1A) (2) 12V DC Cigarette plugs (Female) [ Can be used as inputs or outputs ]

Internal solar charge controller:

Maximum power capacity: 120W

Overload, Short Circuit Protection: Yes

No-load loss: =5mA

Charge Loop Drop: =0.2V

Disharge Loop Drop: =0.1V

Vertical shaft

CDN$ 285.99

Obtaining a First Estimate of Wind Power

From an idea raised in my mind while reading Jack Feltham’s book “The Islands of Bonavista Bay”

A thin but strong horizontal shaft set in a bearing. The front end has a propellor which, struck by the wind, causes the shaft to turn around its bearing. This makes it look like a very narrow, stationary propellor aeroplane, always turning into the wind. The shaft bearing has a vane which points the shaft into the wind.

The shaft bearing is set in a solid (wooden?) vertical shaft which is mounted, fixed, firmly onto a horizontal plate, perhaps eighteen inches square. The vertical shaft is about three feet tall, so that the horizontal shaft is some three feet above the horizontal plate.

The horizontal plate is mounted on a bearing which allows the vane to orient the shaft. I suspect that the bearing is better at the top of the vertical shaft; I don’t want to waste energy changing the momentum of the horizontal plate.

(1) The vane orients the shaft towards the wind.

(2) The wind turns the shaft

(3) The shaft winds the thin string onto the shaft, thereby raising the weight.

(4) I measure the time required to raise a known weight (say, one pound) through a known distance (say three feet) and so can calculate a minimal value for foot-pounds work per second.

(5) This gives me a lower limit for anticipated energy available for charging a battery.

(6) Large propellor (more torque); I have three feet available as a radius.

(7) Short thin shaft (more torque) gives greater leverage for winding the cord.

(8) Three feet between shaft and plate gives me, I think, sufficient time to have a significant value.

(9) Variety of weights according to wind speed. If a two-ounce weight is raised in one second, I should rerun with a heavier weight to obtain a longer interval.

(10) The length of the string divided by the circumference of the shaft yields me revolutions per minute.

(11) Two bearings would allow me to wind the spring between the two and avoid bending the shaft with a load beyond the single bearing.

A thin but strong horizontal shaft set in a bearing. The front end has a propellor which, struck by the wind, causes the shaft to turn around its bearing. [TWO bearings, one in each of two planks. The load of the weighted string is borne between the two bearings to reduce shaft distortion and balance – as the winding travels along the shaft. The front end has a set of semi-circular vanes made from large pop bottles.]

The horizontal plate is mounted on a bearing which allows the vane to orient the shaft. [The vane must be at right anglres to the shaft. We want the shaft to lie perpendicular to the wind tso that the wind blows across the pop-bottle vanes.]

Instead of having Gord gouge me for labour and expertise, I could ask Karl to collaborate. The shaft could be an 11½” Meccano rod, a weldiong rod, ...

T:\Blotter\20190913\Vertical Axis Wind Turbine DIY Guide - The Green Optimistic.htm Rob T:\Blotter\20190913\Vertical Axis Wind Turbine DIY Guide - The Green Optimistic.htm#comment-880 Hey, I have been building my own wind generator and have found some things out about it that I think I will share with others. Building the regular wind mill or the vertical one which is the one I am doing is not the problem, in fact that is the easy part. The pma is even easy to build but most instructions don’t show what to do after that, like how to wire everything after the pma to the batteries. Everybody thinks they can do this and save big on their power bills but it’s not so. They say it’s real cheap to build all of this but it’s not so. If you can get all the stuff together by scrounging for your wind mill that is the way to go but the rest is not cheep, they say you can build the whole thing for under a $100 but the magnet wire is over a $100 all on it’s own and the magnets are not cheep either and there is the charge controler and volt meter, rectifiers, wire, inverter and now the expensive part, the batteries. Batteries are not cheep anymore, one 6v deep cycle is over a$120-140 and a used forklift battery can be $800+, new ones are over $4000, if you want to run your home on this you just lost any savings on your power bill and about the time you start to make a savings it’s time to replace the batteries and start all over. Also most pma’s do not put out enough power to keep up with keeping the batteries charged and supply the home load at the same time and the batteries drain down to far and never charge all the way back up and end up going bad. the only way to keep the batteries good is to stay grid tied so when the wind mill is not keeping up then it switches over to the grid to run a battery charger. There is no savings. The only thing I am doing it for is to run some things in my green house and have backup power to run things in my home when the power goes out.

The old mixer turntable sitting on a nine-inch scrap of wood. Think of the wood being fixed to the base (not shown), and a light-weight (small moment) platform holding the propellor shaft bearings; the weather vane can be fixed to the scrap of wood. A small table on top means little moment, but presents a problem with the string/weight being swung in an arc as the wind shifts.

Two welding rods, and one stripped of fuel. A perfect 12” axle for my energy meter.

Faked (too small) lid and a pop bottle sliced verically. I should use a much larger plastic lid – twelve or fourteen inches diameter would be better – and a great many more bottles.

Steps

(1) Build the ground platform bearing (turntable) and upper deck; fix the vane; balance; Check that it turns into the wind.

(2) Build the wind collector (from pop bottles) on the shaft.

(3) Assemble the twin towers on the upper deck; mount the shaft.

(4) Affix the string, the scale pan, check that (a) turns into wind (b) turns shaft (c) winds cord.

(5) Add weights to pan and test what range of weights can be lifted.

Unordered Notes:-

(1) Rotor: tuna tin at each end of a blade; the curve of the tuna tin holds the curved plastic sheet which can be epoxy-glued, or screwed onto the side of the tin. The base of the tin is screwed to the circular end-wheel.

(2) Deck: I assemble the first model as the upper-deck only, a platform that sits on the ground or on a chair.

(3) Bearing: Not needed for the first model (which will be set on the ground in a strong wind).

(4) Bearing: For the dynamo, the upper deck with its load should be well-balanced to allow the vane to direct the deck into the wind. Rough balance is achieved by eye; fine balance by the use of a ten-foot long rigid balancing rod, tacked to the upper deck. Rotate the deck through 180º and the other end of the rod should match position.

(5) Bearing: Fine-tune the balance with an adjustable (sliding or rotating) weight on the upper deck.

(6) Tower: Two planks, as long as feasible to deliver maximum lift-length (and hence best timing)

(7) Rotor: A vertical rotor comes later. With a vertical rotor there is no need for a bearing race, a swivelling platform, so no need for fine-balance.

(8) Shaft: A welding rod, a hole drilled into the two wooden disks to which are attached the rotor vanes.

(9) String: Fixed to the shaft at one end/side of the gap between the planks, allows the winding to proceed along the shaft without bulging (changing the diameter)

(10) Shaft: I check my wood-drill set and feel that a 1/8-inch shaft would do the trick. Off to Chaulk’s Monday for a welding rod.

(11) Vanes: Instead of tuna tins I use the dimpled bases of the pop bottles. No need to separate. Split the pop bottls in half with a vertical cut. Two (or three? four?) vanes per pop bottle.

(12) Shaft bearings: can be suitably sized nuts hammered into the wood. Oiled, should be OK for a first attempt at lower bounds.

(13) A rotational test will be to pre-wrap a string and load about the shaft and let one weight lift the other.

Wednesday, September 18, 2019 As I walk past JT’s I think about the spool that carries the hose. The two plates are plastic, about 14” diameter. Aren’t these just what I want to mount my vanes/blades?

Thursday, September 19, 2019 Dion says that vertical shaft wind vanes are banned (import, sale) in Newfoundland. I walked down to Green depot and gave them two coffees for two sacks of bottles. I will clean out the bottles in the bath, then start building a rotor.

My first rotor should be a vertical shaft, pointed end sitting in a dimpled piece of tin can, two drops of oil; upper bearing is just a hole in the wood. String winds horizontally from my 1cm metal pulley, hence raising a weighted pan.

Acceptance tests:

(1) The fully charged battery should permit me to boil four mugs of water (coffe, coffe, tea, tea) and read by light for one hour each day.

(2) The wind vane should be able to charge the battery on five successive windy days. A windy day is defined as a day in which the federal forecast for Bonavista mentions “winds of up to 40Km/hr”. Note “successive” rather than “consecutive”. On days with forecasts of less than 40Km/hr I will not use the battery. Only on days when a wind of =40Km/hr will I use the system for water, light.

(3) The battery arrangement should be such that I can purchase an extra battery and splice it in with ease. This means that the batteries should be accessible and easy to connect (e.g. car jumper cables)

(4) 

Saturday, September 21, 2019 The vertical towers are moved to the centre. The shaft overhangs the towers by the width of a pop bottle. FOUR circfular disks are cut, two for each end. Each pair is spaced one bottle. On the discs I draw radiating lines – spokes if you will. These lines form slots into which a rectangular masonite panel is placed and the bottle is tacked/glued to the paddle. I can slide the panels out and use them in another wheel. The paddles are a rectangular tongue radiating outwards from the shaft. The bottles are at the outer edge of the wheel, at the end of the spokes, and so provide great torque. The spokes must be locked in otherwise centrifugal force will eject them.

A wheel at each end means twice as much wheel, close to twice as much harvest. The string is wound around the shaft between the towers; the shaft is driven by identical wheels outside the towers.

The latest ideas:-

(1) The shaft is fully enclosed between the two towers.

(2) The rotor is at one end, the string coiles towards the other end.

(3) The bearing is a simple U-shaped cup cut from a tin can. If it were a vertical shaft I would house the lower end of the shaft in a dimple made from a tin can.

(4) Maintain the neck and base of each bottle, but cut away about half the body. The bottle cap and base are screwed into the circular wooden disks.

(5) 

Here I am soaking about two dozen bottles in a warm bath. Nothing but the best for MY pop bottles. I will leave them there for twelve hours, merely to dissolve any sticky sugar syrup before setting to work.

The caps, of course, are removed from the bottles by The Green Depot or at the command of the Green Depot. Those caps, for sure, are now in the town garbage dump.

Luckily I know someone who has been harbouring bottle caps Lo! these past ten years.

Molasses caps, sadly, are of no use here.

Tuesday, October 01, 2019

The latest ideas:-

(6) Mount the half-bottles with small bolts, nuts, washers using one side of the half-bottle, on the outside of the wheel. A strongt gust will flex the plastic allowing captured air to spill out of the unfastened side.

(7) A square shaft provides a best “grip” for rotation. The shaft is threaded through a square hole in a flat plate, which plate is bolted to the wheel disk.

(8) Mount … on the outside of the wheel means that the large part of the load (the half-bottlesd) is mounted off the end of the short axle or shaft, leaving more space within the tower.

(9) A vertical shaft would allow us to stack extra wheels (2, 3, 4 …) at will.

12 Volt Portable Wind Turbine Generator – Cutting Edge Power.htm $65.97; • Includes built-in diode to prevent backfeed from battery. • Can connect directly to any 12VDC battery. No charge controller is needed. • Easily add on multiple turbines to increase the charging capacity; • Generator type: 12 Volt • Voltage output: 0-30V • Maximum Generator Output: 15 watts • Turbine Weight: 1 lb • Cut in wind speed: • High performance blade: Approximately 6 mph* • 3 Blade: Approximately 5 mph* • Survival wind speed: 45 mph • Battery capacity (If equipped): 7 Ah

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